France and food – they’re inseparable. The challenge is to signal a Frenchness that’s distinctive without pastiche or stuffiness. So we looked for the spirit of modern France in the relaxed elegance and easy, day-to-night transitions of French regional dining.

The new Cȏte has light and variety, the theatre of a feature bar, and bespoke floral murals by Normandy artist, Claire de Quénetain. There’s wood, leather, and velvet in the seating; banquettes with rails or glass partitions; and tiled walls festooned with plates and mirrors. This thoughtful eclecticism suggests a style that’s grown organically – a way of unchaining the chain and rooting each restaurant in its own neighbourhood and community.